49 mhz remote

49 mhz remote DEFAULT

27/49mhz RC. Seems no one uses it.Reasons?Country?

Thank you. I realized there was some reason why these weren't being used for "real" projects, but with my limited knowledge it wasnt clear to me. Right now I am trying to interface a 49 mhz with the arduino, while also reading several arduino books and "An Embedded Software Primer" by David Simon. Its an older textbook I got for very cheap off amazon.

My MAIN objective in this project is to simply write a few working sketches to better familiarize myself with the Arduino code. My coding experience is entirely in BASIC and MATLAB so the C derivatives are taking some getting used to. Most of the arduino project books I have purchased seem to deal almost exclusively with LEDs, and there are so many different ways you can make an LED blink before it becomes beyond boring ;)

A few more questions. Again, If these questions make you go "huh?" Its because I don't fully conceptually grasp all the things I am working with, and am trying to fill in the holes. Reading books is great, but I tend to learn best through hands on trial and error and asking questions of those whose knowledge is much greater than mine. (While hoping they understand that I am a quick study who is not simply wasting their time and refusing to research myself. I simply don't even know where to begin for much of this. If its something you've seen discussed before, a simple link or forum name is more than adequate. I'm not trying to burden anyone, and you will find me to be extremely appreciative of any insight offered.

I am an ASE Technician (cars) and I specialize in retrofitting older cars with newer EFI systems as well as custom work such as welding. So I have some background in electronics, and understand the "whole" picture better than the individual parts. I will also be using a lot of car analogies, because it makes it far easier for me to understand.

Now those questions ;D Digital and Analog. There is still some gray area here for me. Is digital always going to be either HIGH/LOW on/off while Analog is going to have a varying value? When I socket and chip an Eprom on a Honda ECU, I understand that those pins are digital I/Os, much like arduino, but I don't really understand why.

For example, a camshaft position sensor or a crankshaft position sensor is a hall effect sensor that will pulse 5v, so that makes it digital, is that correct?

On the other hand, a typical MAP (manifold absolute pressure) or TPS (throttle position sensor) is going to have a 5v reference voltage but is going to output between 1 and 3v or 1 and 5v depending on manufacturer, so because the signal is changing its analog?

I realize that seems extremely basic, but it is rather vital that I have a solid grasp of the concepts, and currently Im still :o

Second, Is the Vin pin on the POWER part of the arduino always going to give me 5v, or is it currently giving me 5v because I am running it from a USB port, but would give me 9v if I ran it from a 9v adapter?

I realize I am all over the place as far as topic here, but Im trying to just keep everything all together, as to not clutter the front page. I don't really know what the preferences are here, and if starting a new thread is better, let me know.

Here are the basics of my first project. I have a 49mhz RC car that is complete. As stated I am a "learn by hands on and mistakes" type, so I removed the motors, desoldered the power/ground, and ran them to my arduino uno using first the 5v power and then the 3.3v power and charting the resulting voltages. I measured at both the IC pins, and the Motor signals after they have run through some transistors ( I havent really figured this part out exactly, it uses through hole on one side and SMD on the other and im having a heck of a time tracing it)

I was able to trace which button on the transmitter corresponds with which IC pin and which of the 4 motor leads.

My goal is to connect this to the arduino, and have it display( through the serial port) digital ON/OFF at particular digital pins based on which button is pressed.

Now, I want to first attempt to write this sketch myself, but is it possible to do this using either the IC pins OR the motors signals after they have run through the transistors? Im not asking which way it SHOULD be done, I want to know if its possible to do it both ways, because if so I will try to write both.

Is it possible to write a sketch using either method with just the basic commands I have learned from my Getting Started With Arduino book, and/or are there specific commands that I should really pay particular attention to and investigate?

Again, Thanks for reading one of my novels, and any help you can give me! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Sours: https://forum.arduino.cc/t/27-49mhz-rc-seems-no-one-uses-it-reasons-country/21096
I am teaching a robotics course in my kids high school (Rambam Mesivta in Lawrence, NY). I was looking for a cost effective way to teach them about the priciples of robotics without spending an arm and a leg, and getting them excited about the prospects of hacking hardware and teach them how to interface to the arduino platform. We studied H-Bridges made using  trasistors and switches, but there was something missing.

After reading this article:

http://www.et.byu.edu/~bmazzeo/LTR/tech.phtml

It suddenly occurred to me that almost any toy RC car might be using this or almost similar architecture. I opened up 4 RC cars that were donated to the project and indeed they all use more or less the same configuration: All these cars have 2 H-Bridges on a small board mounted inside. Almost all the cars these days use a variation on the RX2C toy car chip (link)(i.e. pins 6,7,10,11 are the drivers for H-Bridge) and these boards can accept  logic voltage levels regardless of the battery voltages. The boards that do not use the chip will usually have an equivalent daughter board that fills the same function.  Furthermore- the boards are optimized to drive the motors of the cars optimally. Contrary to the article  they are safe to turn on both sides of the H-Bridge at the same time by mistake - all they do is turn on braking mode.

Almost all RC cars are configures so the rear wheels are running of a power H-Bridge for the forward/reverse motion and one H-Bridge is used to run a servo or servo-like mechanism in the front wheel. There is another configuration in which the right two wheels are connected to one motor and the left two wheels connected to another and this configuration can do some interesting stunts such as turning on the spot and other tricks.

The chip specifies an additional output - "turbo mode" however I am yet to see a car with this function implemented.

If you open you car and do not find the standard configuration - do not despair - figuring out the H-Bridge inputs are easy - and usually are the pins connected to 2.2k resistor.

The steps involved in making this work:
1) remove the RC chip - more on this later.
2) solder 4 wires to the H-Bridge Terminals
3) solder a wire to the negative terminal of battery - to power the arduino
4) solder a wire to the positive side of the switch - to power the arduino..

Here is a video of this mod after we completed the mod in 25 minutes.


Once reassembled, you can control the car from the arduino - and viola! you have a robotic car!
After doing a few cars - i find that the process of conversion of a car takes about 30-40 minutes.s a
Note the cars are sensorless!

VARIANTS:
* RX2C microchip based controller/receiver
* Daughter bvoard based controller/receiver
* Analog (transistor based) H-Bridge - can be used with analogWrite and PWM to control the power
* Relay based H-Bridge for the bigger devices. This can only be turned on and off - if you want to use PWM on there - you will have to turn to a custom H-Bridge design and ditch the board.

NOTE: This mod cancels the RC functionality. I have had thought to hack the RC part to allow two arduinos (or more) to communicate via hacking the transmitter and then connecting the (disconnected) signals lines as an arduino input. thus one would kill a few birds in one stroke: a dual H-Bridge, robotic car, and half duplex RC communications between arduinos. maybe I will tacle this in the future :)

WARNING: Make sure that the switch is off while programming your fully charged vehicle -or you will have  a robotic missile flying off the table at maximum speed and power. Also you can expect some weak movement of the wheels due to the H-Bridge being powered by the USB cable - even when switch is off.

Here is a video of the kids programming their own cars by themselves, and also note the cars are sensorlesss


Sours: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-convert-almost-any-27-or-49-MHz-RC-Car-in/
  1. Plastic strip door
  2. 3 wishes bakery
  3. Dewalt liion


Remote Controller 49 MHZ (Compatible with Toysrus Fast Lane 3.5CH RC Jaw Breaker Helicopter)

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Sours: https://www.hobbypartz.com/56p-s032-25-49mhz.html
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    Mhz remote 49

    27MHz

    When it comes to operating radio-controlled (RC) vehicles, frequency is the specific radio signal sent from the transmitter to the receiver to control the vehicle. Megahertz, abbreviated MHz (or sometimes Mhz or mhz), is the measurement used to describe frequencies.

    The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) has allocated certain frequencies for consumer use for items like walkie-talkies, garage door openers, and RC toys. Most toy-grade RC vehicles operate at either 27 MHz or 49 MHz. The more sophisticated toys run by advanced users operate at 72-MHz or 75-MHz frequencies. 

    What's the Frequency?

    27 MHz is the most common frequency used in radio controlled vehicles. The manufacturers of these toys will always clearly list the frequencies at which they operate, and they often make the same toy at both 27 MHz and 49 MHz. That's because if the hobbyist wants to race or run two cars at the same time, they must operate on the same frequency. Otherwise, the transmissions will "jam" or crosstalk, and the cars won't operate properly.

    Bands on the Run

    There are several bands or channels within a specific frequency that are commonly used and these may vary by country or region.

    In the U.S., 27MHz (with up to 6 color-coded channels) is commonly used in both hobby-grade and toy-grade RC vehicles.

    Those frequencies are:

    • 26.995 MHz -- Channel 1 (Brown)
    • 27.045 MHz -- Channel 2 (Red)
    • 27.095 MHz -- Channel 3 (Orange)
    • 27.145 MHz -- Channel 4 (Yellow)
    • 27.195 MHz -- Channel 5 (Green)
    • 27.255 MHz -- Channel 6 (Blue)

    In Australia, 27 MHz Channels 10-36 are for surface vehicles. In the UK, 27 MHz (13 color-coded channels) is used for some RC toys.

    Kick Out the Jam

    In many toy-grade vehicles the specific channel within the 27 MHz range is not specified and is unchangeable, making it more likely that two or more 27 MHz vehicles operating in the same area will experience crosstalk or interference. The most common fixed frequency for 27 MHz toys is channel 4 (yellow) at 27.145 MHz. RC toys with selectable bands (usually 3 or 6) generally have a selector switch on both the vehicle and the controller that let the operator select a different band or channel (designated by letter, number, or color) so that two 27 MHz toys can play together.

    Smooth Sailing

    So how does the transmitter, operating on a frequency, actually work? Whenever the operator presses the button, trigger, or joy stick on the vehicle, a pair of electrical contacts touch, completing an integrated circuit. This circuit causes the transmitter to send a set sequence of electrical pulses to the receiver, and the number of these pulses sets up a series of actions. On single-function toys, these pulses propel the vehicle forward and backward, while full-function toys can also turn to the left or right when moving both forward and backward.

    Sours: https://www.liveabout.com/27mhz-measurement-definition-2862538
    HOW TO CHANGE FREQUENCY OF REMOTE CONTROL CAR - RC CAR REPAIRING - RC CAR FREQUENCY CHANGE

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